Buckwheat's PCT Photos: Central California

Southern High Sierra: Kennedy Meadows to Crabtree Meadows and Mt. Whitney

This section of trail is a prelude to the rugged and often snow-covered High Sierra. Jagged peaks loom in the distance, and the plant life transitions from scrubby juniper and pinyon pine to lodgeple and foxtail pines in the subalpine zone. Most thru-hikers choose to summit Mt. Whitney from Crabtree Meadows — a challenging but rewarding 17 mile side-trip. Starting Kennedy Meadows you are required to carry a bear canister, which you can mail home from Echo Lake in the central Sierra. An ice axe is recommended for this section, but crampons are rarely helpful in soft early summer snow.

Advance planning is required to devise a workable resupply strategy. Some thru-hikers opt to stock up for an uninterrupted 10-day walk to Vermillion Valley Resort, while others take a side trip into Independence/Bishop. There are advantages to both options.

The landscape coming out of Kennedy Meadows.

Camping out under the stars.

Snowfalls are not infrequent here in June.

The morning after a snowstorm. Interesting rock we slept next to...

All is covered in a 5 inch layer of fresh snow.

View towards the northwest.

Rocky massif south of Whitney.

Mt. Guyot.

Evening view from a small ridge before Crabtree Meadows.

The approach to Mt. Whitney, highest point in the lower 48 states.

On the summit. I'd recommend taking some emergency clothing and gear with you just in case you get stuck on the mountain (it can happen).

Snacking on the summit (peanut butter). Putting plastic bags over your socks can help keep your feet drier and warmer during long snow crossings.

Another view from the summit.

View down towards Guitar Lake.

My poncho-tarp shelter at Crabtree Meadows. It snowed the previous night, and I had to get up at 2 am to set up my tarp.

Most PCT thru-hikers end up staying 2 nights at Crabtree Meadows in order to summit Whitney. There can be a lot of hikers here.

High Sierra: Mt. Whitney to Yosemite National Park

For many thru-hikers this is the most physically challenging section of the PCT. Almost every day you will have a pass to climb over, and they are usually snow-covered through late June. Night-time temperatures may be below freezing, yet you can easily get sunburned during the day, you will have many ice-cold creeks to ford, and some time in June the mosquitos will come out... In addition, you may well be carrying a heavy pack loaded with many days of food, a bear canister, and possibly an ice axe or other equipment. On the other hand, the beauty and remoteness of the High Sierra are absolutely unparalleled, and you are sure to have a true wilderness experience.

Every season is a bit different, but in general plan to camp close to passes and get over them in mid to late morning to avoid postholing (trudging through collapsing snow) in softening snow, which takes time and saps your energy. If water levels are high, try to have your important creek crossings early in the morning, not in the afternoon. Take measures to keep your feet relatively warm; in 2009 many thru-hikers experienced nerve damage in their feet from prolonged cold due to the unseasonably cold temperatures and large snow fields.

From Crabtree Meadows the trail gradually ascends towards Forrester Pass, highest point on the official PCT route.

Magnificent, spacious views all around.

A frigid stream crossing.

Looking towards the high peaks of the Great Western Divide (a massif within Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Park).

Believe it or not, Forrester Pass is located in the tiny notch in the center of this photograph.

The famously treacherous final steps to Forrester Pass. Walk slowly and maintain three points of contact...

The view to the north of the pass: a world of stark granite.

Down in the valley.

View from the approach to Kearsarge Pass, where one can descend into Independence for resupply.

Hotel room filled with hiker stuff. Independence. Better supermarkets are available in Lone Pine and Bishop, a bus ride away.

Even when carefully packed my bear canister was only able to hold 5.5 days of food.

View of the dramatic east side of the Sierras from Lone Pine.

Thru-hiker climbs back onto the trail after a minor slip.

One of the Rae Lakes.

A pristine lake early in the morning.

Aspen-lined creek between Glen and Pinchot passes.

View from the approach to Pinchot Pass.

Often you can look up or down stream and find a way to cross a creek without getting wet. Sometimes it's impossible, and you just have to cross in the safest location.

The challenging climb up Mather Pass.

View north from Mather Pass towards the Palisades.

Lower down, the ferns are just opening up.

View up from Le Conte Canyon.

Approaching Muir Pass. In 2009 there was 4 miles of snow on the approach and 6 miles on the descent. What a day!

Crossing Evolution Creek on stepping stones during sleet.

Some animals have to cross these creeks, too!

Magnificent Evolution Valley. The peaks around here have names like "Darwin" and "Mendel."

Chuck, Buckwheat, and Man Down relax at the end of a long, hard day.

Marie Lake from gentle Selden Pass.

Crossing Bear Creek. This is known to be a tricky crossing, but it was easy for us. Water levels vary widely from week to week and even within the day.

Magnificent view of snow-covered massif.

One of many alpine lakes...

Approaching Reds Meadow. There was a large forest fire here 20 years ago, and the forests still haven't recovered.

Waterfall near Devil's Postpile National Monument.

Here the PCT and John Muir Trail finally diverge. You can continue on the PCT (as I did) or take the higher and snowier route through the mountains I'm looking at.

Magnificent Banner Peak above Thousand Island Lake.

"Sun cups" form late in the spring. As snow melts under the sun, meltwater drips down into small depressions, where melting accelerates.

Another view of Banner Peak, one of the most scenic on the entire PCT.

Setting up camp. Tarptents seemed to be the most favored shelter in 2009.

Try to find the pond in this picture.

Vast field of sun cups at Donahue Pass.

Looking down from Donahue Pass. Now we are in Yosemite National Park.

Looking back at Lyell Peak from Lyell Creek.

Deep and silent Lyell Creek.

Down in Tuolumne Meadows, thru-hikers "share the wealth."

Tenaya Lake, a short drive from Tuolumne Meadows (off the PCT).

Mariposa sequoia grove (off the PCT). The PCT doesn't venture this low in the Sierra, and it's really a different world down here.

Some PCT'ers opt to complete the entire JMT (John Muir Trail) and hike down into Yosemite Valley. If so, these are some of the things they get to see (Yosemite Falls).

Yosemite Valley. Beware of crowds and heat!

Back at spacious Tuolumne Meadows.

Central Sierra: Yosemite National Park to Donner Summit

From here on the mountains get progressively smaller and gentler. Your hiking pace will probably pick up again after having dropped considerably in the High Sierra. The challenges are similar to those of the High Sierra, but not quite as acute. Furthermore, there are more roads and people around, and the temperatures have probably warmed up. On the other hand, the mosquitos are probably out in full force by now...

Cascades not far from Tuolumne Meadows.

Thru-hikers walk off into the distance.

A jolly little creek crossing — just one of many.

A very annoying snowbank right on top of the trail.

On the snowbank I fell into a hidden hole and sunk my trekking pole deep into the snow at the same time. It got lodged next to a rock, and it took me 15 minutes to dig it out with my potty trowel.

Approaching one of the snow-covered sections. A scenic subalpine meadow.

A lake...

View from other side.

Someone scribbled "1000" in the dirt at the thousand-mile point.

Crossing the snowy Sierra crest to reach Sonora Pass.

Bridgeport Reservoir. One resupply option is to hitchhike into Bridgeport, but I do not recommend it because it is very hard to get a ride out (the town is far from the PCT and people are not familiar with thru-hikers).

Picking up a package of food and new shoes at the Bridgeport Post Office. Confirm post office hours before your hike! I got there just after closing and had to come back the next morning, wasting an entire day in the process.